As our month in the Himalayas came to an end, it was time to say goodbye to ashram life. Thankfully, I had five more days in India before my flight back to London, so it was time to make the most of the warmth! Feeling energised and ready to face the world, along with friends Rebecca and Clare, I made my way to Rishikesh, at the foothills of the Himalayas. For three days we stayed at the beautiful Rainforest guest, just on the outskirts of town. Surrounded by trees and overlooking the Ganges, this was the perfect place to spend a few days readjusting to the real world. Rishikesh itself, although beautifully situated on the river, is hectic and noisy. It feels like a vortex of travelers, all of whom have been sucked in by some greater force. I was definitely happier back at the Rainforest in the peace of the trees!
Before leaving Rishikesh, we wanted to make a visit to the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi Ashram, where the Beatles and many other famous people spent time in the late 60’s. The only problem was on this particular day, it happened to be holi festival, a Hindu festival, which celebrates the beginning of spring, where the tradition is to light bonfires and throw coloured powder at one another. The coloured powder gets mixed with water and is more like paint, so it’s a rather messy affair, as the streets become a giant play ground of paint fights. Somehow we needed to navigate our way through the streets to the other side of town and to avoid getting splattered at the same time. This was never going to happen and in no time, we looked like multi-coloured goblins!
Before leaving Rishikesh, we wanted to make a visit to the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi Ashram, where the Beatles and many other famous people spent time in the late 60’s. The only problem was on this particular day, it happened to be holi festival, a Hindu festival, which celebrates the beginning of spring, where the tradition is to light bonfires and throw coloured powder at one another. The coloured powder gets mixed with water and is more like paint, so it’s a rather messy affair, as the streets become a giant play ground of paint fights. Somehow we needed to navigate our way through the streets to the other side of town and to avoid getting splattered at the same time. This was never going to happen and in no time, we looked like multi-coloured goblins!
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We eventually emerged at the other end of town. Now we just needed to find the ashram, which is no longer in use. It is a derelict site and although entry is strictly prohibited by the authorities, people continue to seek it out. Perhaps the secret location and haunted atmosphere make it all the more appealing! Luckily, whilst we were wandering around wondering how we might get in, a little Indian man emerged from nowhere and for a few rupees, he led us up the forest path. He was obviously used to foreigners coming here! As we made our way through the trees, I felt like a child who was breaking the rules, knowing there would be big trouble if I got caught! Our Indian friend left us at the gates and in we went. No doubt about it, the place felt slightly haunted and eerie but you could just imagine how beautiful it must have been. The stone walled bee-hive cells, which once offered accommodation, are still intact and many have artwork, which remains on the walls. Maharishi ashram is certainly worth a visit but I think we all breathed a sigh of relief when we descended back down the forest path!
Covered in remnants of paint, I made my way from Rishikesh to Delhi, where I spent the last three days of my trip in Delhi's southern quarter, close to Hauz Khaus village, a bohemian part of the city, with a slightly European feel. This is a stark contrast to the more northern parts, where the poverty is overwhelming and the sheer volume of people is like nothing I have experienced before. But I loved this city, which is colourful, vibrant and culturally diverse. There is so much to take in and like one giant organism, it pulses with aliveness! For three days, I walked, explored and ate! I gorged on dosas, I tried every bit of street food I came across and I drank tea in the spectacular Imperial hotel. This is a city of extremes and I wanted to experience it all! I did pay the price, however, and returned to London with a rather upset Delhi belly!!
For now, I was ready to leave India behind. Short bursts in this continent of bedlam are enough. But for all its madness, it has beauty and appeal like no other place. Both times I have been to India I have returned, feeling as though deep internal shifts have taken place and my spiritual energy renewed. But i'm always grateful to be back on home ground to enjoy a very long, hot shower and to make myself my favourite thing in the world, a big bowl of fresh miso soup with seaweed, greens and brown rice. My whole body relaxes and says thank you very much!
For now, I was ready to leave India behind. Short bursts in this continent of bedlam are enough. But for all its madness, it has beauty and appeal like no other place. Both times I have been to India I have returned, feeling as though deep internal shifts have taken place and my spiritual energy renewed. But i'm always grateful to be back on home ground to enjoy a very long, hot shower and to make myself my favourite thing in the world, a big bowl of fresh miso soup with seaweed, greens and brown rice. My whole body relaxes and says thank you very much!
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